The labor strike of 9,000 civilian workers is now in its sixth day. On occasion, there has been a gathering of people at a rally with a speaker talking from a bullhorn. Managers are seen wandering around the offices chatting and sitting in front of computers. Other than that, there is not much sign of a real strike although the newspaper suggests that border crossings are quite crowded and the lines lengthy.
The most significant development is that nurses and doctors in several of the public hospitals and clinics have joined the strike, shutting down the clinics and leaving some inpatients in the lurch. The government has gone to court to require medical personnel to remain on duty with at least skeleton crews. The buses are still running, the mail is still being delivered and most of the stores are open.
The construction crew near our office for a new 15’x15’ outbuilding for the Council Secretary has continued working. This would not be memorable except it is being done by hand and one of the workers with a pick axe managed to cut the electrical cable, so we have no electricity. At least publicly, there appears to be no significant move toward compromise between union and management and everything has been put on hold for the four-day Easter holiday including any attempt to restore our electric current. No juice, office staff can't work, no Internet…a real pain!
Some Things I have Learned
Every respiratory infection, cold, nasal drip or cough, is labelled here as “the flu,” and reason to be off work if you go to the clinic and get a signed note from a doctor, which is very seldom refused.
Toothpicks are a Botswana obsession. Perhaps because a lot of meat is eaten here, every table contains a supply and most everyone uses one. I had addiction long before I came to Africa so it was not unusual for me. What was unusual was to see everyone, including the most fashionable ladies, vigorously pick their teeth after a meal. Some would have a toothpick hanging out of their mouth during the post-prandial conversation which vaguely resembles Popeye’s pipe. If there are no regular toothpicks around, the Batswana grab the long thin thorns of the acacia trees to do the job.
Public transportation here is quite good. Combi's (extended VW mini-busses) do short and medium runs and carry 16 passengers. Large buses vary in their condition, but in general are quite safe and clean. There are no chickens or other animals on board. The schedules generally run on time and the fares are cheap – it costs about 80 cents to go from our village to the capital 15 miles away. You can travel from one end of Botswana to the other (the size of Texas) for approximately $22. There is one proviso however, and that is that your butt must be no more than 14 inches wide. If not, you become very “up close and personal” with your next-door neighbor or have 1 ½ cheeks on the seat and one half cheek hanging right out there in the aisle.
Batswana love photographs. As soon as they see you with a camera they ask for their picture to be taken and are delighted to have someone take a picture of you with them. Many do not want to smile and prefer a solemn expression.
The cell phone penetration in Botswana is 136%. This means that statistically, every citizen has one cell phone and approximately one third of the population has two. As is common in the States, people use cell phones to call or text almost constantly--while on the bus, walking down the street, or in meetings.
Basic services such as electricity, water, gas for cooking, and telephone are generally available but can shut off unpredictably for varying lengths of time from several minutes to several days.
Clothes smell fresher when they have dried hanging on a clothesline. Clothes driers are virtually non-existent except for the very wealthy.
The big meal here is lunch. Particularly at conferences or other places where there is a buffet line, I do mean “BIG.” Plates are piled with a large mound of food and often people go back for seconds.
In general, the vast majority of people are quite honest. On four separate occasions I had my cell phone or wallet fall out of my pocket on a public bus. On all four occasions someone would notify me or in one case, a passenger chased me down at the front of the bus to return the item. Nonetheless, our house was robbed three times, while we were sleeping.
I feel a lot safer in a country in which guns are illegal.
Unless you are situated on a busy road, the only sounds that you hear in Ramotswa are birds chirping, roosters crowing, cowbells clanking, donkey’s braying and children laughing and playing.
Kgosi
Sunday, April 24, 2011
Monday, April 18, 2011
STRIKE?
In America, labor strikes are quite common. In Botswana where even the hint of confrontation is avoided, they are a rarity and there has not been a major one since 1991. Nonetheless, we are on the verge of a country-wide labor strike beginning at 7:30 AM tomorrow morning. It is a typical conflict between workers and government management about wages and benefits. This should not in any way be confused with the uprisings in Egypt, Tunisia or Libya. Those countries are over 5000 miles away and have dictatorial governments. Botswana has both democratic elections and democratic freedoms. The cause of the strike is that the rank-and-file workers have not had a pay raise in over three years while prices have risen. The government says that diamond sales are down so they do not have the revenue to offer a pay raise now, but have offered to reconsider in September. This has not been satisfactory to the workers, so drivers, secretaries, teachers, nurses, border guards, and many other civil servants are scheduled to walk off the job. Most managers are considered essential and/or are not members of the union so they will remain in their offices.
Peace Corps has given us specific instructions not to take either side, to be seen around the village but not to be in our offices. An interesting twist to this strike is that it has a scheduled re-evaluation date in 10 days and then a “stop date” in three weeks. This is quite typical of Botswana civility and unlike American strikes which threaten to go on indefinitely until demands are met. We will see.
Travel plans
Kopo and I have come to decisions about our return travel strategy. As some of you know, we had planned to go to Egypt, but that obviously is not a good idea at this time. We have decided to go to Istanbul Turkey for four days when we depart Botswana June 20th. We have booked a hotel and tours of the Bosporus, the blue Mosque, and other sites in and around the city. In addition to simply being an interesting trip in a safe country, it will also be a celebration for our 40th wedding anniversary which occurs on June 27. We have our flight plans arranged, leaving Istanbul on the morning of June 25 and arriving in Denver at 10:00 that night.
Re-evaluation time
As we approach the two month mark left in our service here, I have found myself thinking a lot about the last two years, Africa, and Botswana. So with each post from now on, I want to start to identify “Some things I have learned.” and will begin with this post. Therefore, in no particular order......
SOME THINGS I HAVE LEARNED IN THE LAST TWO YEARS
1.
1. Most African women dislike their hair. They find it not straight enough and unmanageable. Most spend a regular afternoon with frequency in the beauty parlor to remedy this situation. There is one whole aisle in the supermarket solely devoted to hair care products. Many women have a close-cropped cut, which is comfortable in the heat. A large percentage of them either wear wigs or plaits with extensions which look quite natural. It is not unusual to have women show up with three or four drastically different hairdos in any given year. A regular accompaniment is a brightly-colored scarf tied in a variety of ways. Men almost always have a buzz cut which varies from a virtual shave to a short length.
2.
2. In America we have three responses to a question – “Yes, Maybe, or No.” In Botswana, there are really only two answers and the meanings are different. “Yes” means “Maybe” and “Maybe” means “No.” To directly respond to a question with a “No” is almost never done. Until you understand the meanings of the words as they are used here, it appears that Africans don’t tell the truth. This is not true, as they just don’t want to offend you.
2. In America we have three responses to a question – “Yes, Maybe, or No.” In Botswana, there are really only two answers and the meanings are different. “Yes” means “Maybe” and “Maybe” means “No.” To directly respond to a question with a “No” is almost never done. Until you understand the meanings of the words as they are used here, it appears that Africans don’t tell the truth. This is not true, as they just don’t want to offend you.
3.
3. The definition of “Youth” in Botswana is from age 15 to age 29. This group is great fun to work with as they are enthusiastic, willing to learn, and interested in almost everything.
3. The definition of “Youth” in Botswana is from age 15 to age 29. This group is great fun to work with as they are enthusiastic, willing to learn, and interested in almost everything.
4.
4.There are a great many chess players in Botswana (It is the single largest extra-curricular club in Kopo’s school). Almost no one though, has heard of checkers, Chinese checkers, Scrabble, Concentration or other games that are second nature to most American children. When taught, they pick up the games rapidly and play with great relish.
4.There are a great many chess players in Botswana (It is the single largest extra-curricular club in Kopo’s school). Almost no one though, has heard of checkers, Chinese checkers, Scrabble, Concentration or other games that are second nature to most American children. When taught, they pick up the games rapidly and play with great relish.
5.
5.Transportation is a major hassle for Peace Corps service. Until we came to Africa, it was hard to think about how much a convenience it is to have a car. Just imagine carrying all your groceries, any purchases you make, any equipment you need for a presentation, while walking everywhere, potentially in the rain or the heat. Oh yeah I just did. Ugh!
5.Transportation is a major hassle for Peace Corps service. Until we came to Africa, it was hard to think about how much a convenience it is to have a car. Just imagine carrying all your groceries, any purchases you make, any equipment you need for a presentation, while walking everywhere, potentially in the rain or the heat. Oh yeah I just did. Ugh!
6.
6.Drivers here feel they own the road and things such as pedestrian rights or bicyclist safety is non-existent. Cars will maintain their position in the road regardless of whether you are walking along the edge or trying to cycle. Most everyone drives too fast or too slow. Traffic accidents are unfortunately common. Two relatives of my office mates as well as two other colleagues in our work complex have been involved in walking or driving collisions in just the last 6 months alone.
6.Drivers here feel they own the road and things such as pedestrian rights or bicyclist safety is non-existent. Cars will maintain their position in the road regardless of whether you are walking along the edge or trying to cycle. Most everyone drives too fast or too slow. Traffic accidents are unfortunately common. Two relatives of my office mates as well as two other colleagues in our work complex have been involved in walking or driving collisions in just the last 6 months alone.
7.
7.Despite our American proclivity to refrigerate any kind of left over, it has become quite clear that many foods do not spoil if they are left out on a kitchen counter or on the stove. Particularly when we were staying with our Botswana host family, we ate virtually every combination of meat, vegetables, pasta, and other foods which had stayed out in the open air overnight and we never got sick.
7.Despite our American proclivity to refrigerate any kind of left over, it has become quite clear that many foods do not spoil if they are left out on a kitchen counter or on the stove. Particularly when we were staying with our Botswana host family, we ate virtually every combination of meat, vegetables, pasta, and other foods which had stayed out in the open air overnight and we never got sick.
8.
8.The Batswana are always well dressed. Teachers, office workers and store clerks are always dressed in skirts blouses and high heels for the women. Men have polished shoes, and a collared shirt often with a tie. Clothes are spotless and well pressed. Men’s shoes are of a particular style with long pointed tips which extend far beyond the end of the toes.
8.The Batswana are always well dressed. Teachers, office workers and store clerks are always dressed in skirts blouses and high heels for the women. Men have polished shoes, and a collared shirt often with a tie. Clothes are spotless and well pressed. Men’s shoes are of a particular style with long pointed tips which extend far beyond the end of the toes.
9.
9.The air is very clear and the sky is bright blue almost all the time. There is virtually no air pollution although dust blows frequently during the windy season.
9.The air is very clear and the sky is bright blue almost all the time. There is virtually no air pollution although dust blows frequently during the windy season.
10.
10.It is very pleasant to be respected for one’s age and be free of America’s necessity to appear young.
10.It is very pleasant to be respected for one’s age and be free of America’s necessity to appear young.
Kgosi
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Youth Trip and the Khronicle
Last weekend, we took our Life Line youth group to Mogkolodi Nature Preserve for an overnight camp and workshop. 25 students attended with 5 adult supervisors and Maureen’s brother Kevin who was visiting. It came off very well and the kids had a great time. In addition to sessions on ecology, waste management and animal protection, we went on a game drive, had team building exercises, went swimming, and played volleyball. At an evening campfire, we had small group discussions about family dynamics and parent-child interactions. Nearly all the kids have very little honest, direct communication with their parents, and every one had been physically beaten as punishment. About half would likely beat their own kids when they had them, but the other half felt they would not.They all yearned for their parents to listen more. One girl almost reluctantly spoke about how she could talk to her Mother about anything, at any time and felt quite comfortable doing so. As leaders, we tried to explore why that was so in her family and how as adults, the rest could foster that atmosphere in their own families. They all were intensely listening, and one can only hope these kinds of talks will bear fruit down the road. We ended the evening with singing, dancing and toasted marshmallows.Somewhat to our surprise, the kids actually went to sleep.
Teaching basic swimming. Most are relatively terrified to let go of the side of the pool
Bathing Beauties
The gents
Antlers on parade
Our formal pose
The New Place
I forgot last week to include some photos of our new apartment, so here they are. It is actually quite civilized and by far the nicest place of the three that we have lived in. Even though only a mile or so from our other two houses, it has quite a different feel. A paved road, not a dirt one; an open field not a noisy bar across the street, but has the same clean air and school kids walking by.
As dawn breaks here though, there are bicyclists, joggers and power walking pairs of women. A little later, cars speed past, going way too fast (a common occurrence on Botswana roads). All this is mixed in with a herd of donkeys with bells around their necks, several cows with their own distinctive bell sounds, and eventually a large herd of goats eating everything in sight. One of the donkeys has figured out how to open the gate to the apartments and stands stock still on the first floor apartment patio enjoying the shade. It is an odd, but appealing set of contradicting sights and sounds.
Ours is second floor on the right
The view from our patio with the obligatory goats in the background
Kevin had a busy and very filled 4 days with us before he left for his safari around Botswana, despite the fasct that a wateer main broke and we had no water for 3 days. Then he is off to Germany (where he lived for 5 years) to visit friends, and then to London to visit relatives. This picture is of the two O’Keefe’s, my boss Mma Ooke and our former next door neighbor and Ramotswa Librarian, Kakale. Kakale called yesterday to say that goats had gotten into her yard and eaten all the blooms on the flowers that she and I had carefully dug up and hand carried to her yard when we moved. Ugh!
The Kalahari Khronicle Volume 2 Number 7
Zsa Zsa and husband are no longer Lookers
CNN reported that Zsa Zsa Gabor’s husband Prince Frederick Von Anhalt accidentally glued his eyes shut requiring surgical repair by a Beverly Hills doctor. It apparently was dark and he grabbed his wife’s nail glue instead of eye drops. The prince is 68 years old and has been married to Zsa Zsa for 10 years despite the fact that she is now 93 and 25 years older than her husband. Zsa Zsa’s daughter reports that her Mother also suffered an eye injury when she mistakenly used “Krazy glue” on her eyelashes shortly after the marriage.
Kgosi’s Komment—It is apparent that this couple goes to great lengths not to look at each other. Kgosi cannot come up with even one good reason why people should be keeping Krazy glue on their bedroom nightstand.
Police search for Moron
KUSA TV in Denver report that Aurora police are searching for a man whom they say has a history of violence and has attacked his wife in the past. 35-year-old Joseph Moron is wanted for investigation of stalking, second-degree kidnapping, second-degree assault, first-degree burglary, and numerous counts of violating a restraining order. He is described by police as a 5’9” white man weighing about 208 pounds with brown eyes and brown hair. They say he is known to frequent the area of Iliff Avenue in Aurora.
Kgosi’s Komment—Since grade school, Joseph has been doing his best to avoid using his last name and even pretending it is not so. Kgosi has it on good authority that Joseph obtained many of these legal charges after sequentially assaulting the post man and then his wife. The mail carrier knocked on the door and asked “Do Morons live here?” To which he replied “No we are the Smart people.” The post man replied “Are you sure you are a Smart person, because I got all this mail addressed to Morons at this address.”
“For the third time this week I am telling you I am not a moron.” He decked the postman and slammed the door. His wife witnessed this and realized she was not going to get any more mail “Joseph, you’re a Moron. You’ve been a Moron all your life and after I married you I became a Moron. Now you are not only a moron, you’re an idiot.” Shortly thereafter he pushed her to the floor and his wife obtained the first of a series of restraining orders which Joseph promptly violated. When dragged back into court the judge told him that this restraining order was plain and simple. He said only a Moron could violate an order that was this plain and simple. Joseph then assumed the court order did not apply to him and again violated the restraining order.
Kgosi hopes they catch this moron before Kgosi returns to Denver in June.
Teaching basic swimming. Most are relatively terrified to let go of the side of the pool
Bathing Beauties
The gents
Antlers on parade
Our formal pose
The New Place
I forgot last week to include some photos of our new apartment, so here they are. It is actually quite civilized and by far the nicest place of the three that we have lived in. Even though only a mile or so from our other two houses, it has quite a different feel. A paved road, not a dirt one; an open field not a noisy bar across the street, but has the same clean air and school kids walking by.
As dawn breaks here though, there are bicyclists, joggers and power walking pairs of women. A little later, cars speed past, going way too fast (a common occurrence on Botswana roads). All this is mixed in with a herd of donkeys with bells around their necks, several cows with their own distinctive bell sounds, and eventually a large herd of goats eating everything in sight. One of the donkeys has figured out how to open the gate to the apartments and stands stock still on the first floor apartment patio enjoying the shade. It is an odd, but appealing set of contradicting sights and sounds.
Kevin had a busy and very filled 4 days with us before he left for his safari around Botswana, despite the fasct that a wateer main broke and we had no water for 3 days. Then he is off to Germany (where he lived for 5 years) to visit friends, and then to London to visit relatives. This picture is of the two O’Keefe’s, my boss Mma Ooke and our former next door neighbor and Ramotswa Librarian, Kakale. Kakale called yesterday to say that goats had gotten into her yard and eaten all the blooms on the flowers that she and I had carefully dug up and hand carried to her yard when we moved. Ugh!
The Kalahari Khronicle Volume 2 Number 7
Zsa Zsa and husband are no longer Lookers
CNN reported that Zsa Zsa Gabor’s husband Prince Frederick Von Anhalt accidentally glued his eyes shut requiring surgical repair by a Beverly Hills doctor. It apparently was dark and he grabbed his wife’s nail glue instead of eye drops. The prince is 68 years old and has been married to Zsa Zsa for 10 years despite the fact that she is now 93 and 25 years older than her husband. Zsa Zsa’s daughter reports that her Mother also suffered an eye injury when she mistakenly used “Krazy glue” on her eyelashes shortly after the marriage.
Kgosi’s Komment—It is apparent that this couple goes to great lengths not to look at each other. Kgosi cannot come up with even one good reason why people should be keeping Krazy glue on their bedroom nightstand.
Police search for Moron
KUSA TV in Denver report that Aurora police are searching for a man whom they say has a history of violence and has attacked his wife in the past. 35-year-old Joseph Moron is wanted for investigation of stalking, second-degree kidnapping, second-degree assault, first-degree burglary, and numerous counts of violating a restraining order. He is described by police as a 5’9” white man weighing about 208 pounds with brown eyes and brown hair. They say he is known to frequent the area of Iliff Avenue in Aurora.
Kgosi’s Komment—Since grade school, Joseph has been doing his best to avoid using his last name and even pretending it is not so. Kgosi has it on good authority that Joseph obtained many of these legal charges after sequentially assaulting the post man and then his wife. The mail carrier knocked on the door and asked “Do Morons live here?” To which he replied “No we are the Smart people.” The post man replied “Are you sure you are a Smart person, because I got all this mail addressed to Morons at this address.”
“For the third time this week I am telling you I am not a moron.” He decked the postman and slammed the door. His wife witnessed this and realized she was not going to get any more mail “Joseph, you’re a Moron. You’ve been a Moron all your life and after I married you I became a Moron. Now you are not only a moron, you’re an idiot.” Shortly thereafter he pushed her to the floor and his wife obtained the first of a series of restraining orders which Joseph promptly violated. When dragged back into court the judge told him that this restraining order was plain and simple. He said only a Moron could violate an order that was this plain and simple. Joseph then assumed the court order did not apply to him and again violated the restraining order.
Kgosi hopes they catch this moron before Kgosi returns to Denver in June.
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