Sunday, October 25, 2009

OUR FIRST FIELD TRIP

Protocol and inefficiency—Take that! Dorans win!

Kopo got an invitation from another PC volunteer to bring a group of students from her school, Kagiso to Leadership training in Molepolole. Thirteen of the 46 students who were forming the new Peer Education Group were selected. Seemed easy enough…the invite contained the time, date and program outlined. But nothing in Africa is easy. (Could be a new mantra!) After sharing the invitation with her Guidance and Counseling Head, it was pointed out that the invitation did not contain the stamp of approval (literally) of the Head man of the inviting School…..therefore an invalid invitation. Back to phoning the other PC volunteer to explain the problem….three days later, a letter with the government stamp was faxed. Now we can proceed. But, nooooooo, it then emerges that faxed copies are not acceptable invitations.

Question from Kopo: “Since the workshop is three days away, can’t we just plan on it, invite the kids, get parental permission letters, arrange for transport and get a mailed invitation later?” Unheard of, but under the radar in a veil of secrecy, plans were made anyway. Two days before departure. Kopo decided to be proactive and booked the transport herself in the Registry Office….wrong again Kopo. Only officers of the School can book transportation. Back to square one with a crucial element of transportation. Then, since there are no computers that work at School, a trip to Kgosi’s office was necessary to type and print the permission slips….back to School again. Since the list of students was buried under piles of papers, Kopo’s counterpart took half an hour to find list of eligible kids.

Finally, letters and permission slips were compiled and then….how to find the kids? Now, it is one day before meeting…and oh yeah, transport is not yet confirmed. Kopo scattered to five House meetings to read the names of the selected students to report to Guidance Office….10 show up….need to hunt down the other three--needles in a haystack of 1600+ students, since no one seems to have a list of which students are in which classroom.

With only half of permission slips received, Saturday morning arrives….7 AM at School. By some miracle, at 7:30, with all students present and accounted for, Counterpart, Kgosi, Kopo and Kombi driver headed to Molepolole. Kopo still believes in miracles!

To document the truth of the tale, below are several pictures from the event. Eighty students from 6 different schools and 8 PC volunteers. Training was received on HIV/AIDS, public speaking, peer mediation and peer counseling—all student lead with a liberal dose of input from the PC’s.







The group from Ramotswa



THE EMPIRE STRIKES BACK

You can’t count on winning all the battles against demon protocol and African timetables though. This, as evidenced by a “mandatory” workshop for training on Research within BW which was scheduled mid-September for October 5-9. Six of us from Ramotswa, including two physicians, the Director of Public Health, and District AIDS Coordinator cleared our entire weekly schedule to attend. Hey, it was an opportunity to spend the week in a nice hotel on the town, and hopefully learn something.

On October 2, three days before we were supposed to leave, we got a call that the workshop was postponed to October 26-30. No reason, that’s just the way it is. Sooorrryyy! We again cleared our calendars to go on the new dates, including frantically trying to do any work that was needed for our big District Planning Retreat which would occur first thing Monday when we returned from the Research workshop.

By this Thursday though, we still had no idea where the Research workshop would be held. Someone came in to the office to report an overheard conversation that it was to be postponed indefinitely. We called the organizers to find out if this blasted thing was going to transpire and were told “Yes it is on and it will be held at the Big 5 Lodge……but we will tell you if anything changes.” That just didn’t inspire my confidence.

Friday at 4 PM we get another call that the conference is on, but they could not find enough hotel rooms for all the attendees, and we should plan on commuting every morning and evening from Ramotswa. Ugh! How to turn a fun week into a series of 12 hour days of commuter hassle. Well what could you expect if you are planning a week-long conference for 150 people two working days before it is to start?

As of now we are heading up to Gaborone at 7 AM tomorrow morning in hopes that there are accommodations. Stay tuned.


BURIED IS BEST

As many of you know, I am not the world’s best sleeper. I often arise and wander about the premises for an hour or two in the middle of the night before going back to sleep. About a week after we arrived in Ramotswa, I got up, went to the kitchen and turned on the light. There, three feet away, was the biggest roach I had ever seen. This somewhat surprised me since Kopo, dubbed the Queen of Clean by our children, sweeps the floor every evening for food crumbs until the bristles on the broom have been worn down to a nub. Truth be told, I am not real fond of roaches either, particularly ones the size of a horizontal oil derrick.

This roach was not big, it was HUGE. It was no little Swift Boat; it had USS and its country of registration painted on its stern. It wasn’t scooting and scattering like teeny-weeny roaches, this one LUMBERED. I wasn’t totally sure if it was moving until I saw the curtains fluttering in the wake. It was moving away from me so I figured I had a chance. I christened it the USS Dubya---------------------for Widebody.

Reaching for the only weapon I could find, a large skillet, I took a wild swing and scored a direct hit. Despite being on-target with the force of a “nucular” missile, the thing wasn’t even fazed. For the first time since our arrival, I rued the trans-Atlantic luggage weight restrictions which prevented me from packing the sledge hammer. Determined, I took another mighty whack. I was just about to give off a cry of “Mission Accomplished” when it turned around and looked in my direction. Uh-Oh. All I did was P---s it off. I was outted quicker than Valerie Plame. This thing looked mean. I didn’t want to be its enemy. If I knew if I wasn’t fer ‘em, I would be considered agin ‘em. I would be dropped like a liberal leaning US Attorney

Fortunately for my bodily integrity, it kept lumbering away. Looking at it from the rear, I kept being reminded of what one Alaskan sled dog said to the other Alaskan sled dog.

“You know there’s only one thing that I have learned in all my years of dog sledding.”

“What’s that?”

“If you are not the lead dog, the view is always the same.”

Rather than skittering into some space or looking for a coalition of other ships to accompany it into battle, its exit strategy from the house was to ram the kitchen wall head long, create a gaping hole and proceed out into the yard.

Shaken but intact, I thought I had heard the last of the USS Dubya. I knew if I revealed the existence of this creature to my wife that she would be on the next banana boat to the States and I would spending the next two years as a bachelor. It was best if this incident remained forever buried and never saw the light of day, somewhat like a secret CIA operation.

Months went by and I began thinking to myself …………………………
”You’re doin’ a hell of a job, Brownie.” That was all fine until this week when the Gaborone Daily News reporter cornered me and began asking rapid fire questions that felt like I was being water-boarded. He asked pointedly and repeatedly what I knew about the secret existence of the Dubya. I tried hemming, hawing and evading, but he told me that they already had confirmation from other sources of the Dubya’s sister roach, the USS Chainlink. The newspaper already knew that the Chainlink, another battle wagon, could rain laser-guided smart bombs around the world with deadly accuracy, but on occasion had been known to create wild “friendly fire” and once shot a member of its own armada.

I had to come clean and admit that yes, the Dubya, that lean mean fighting machine existed in my very own kitchen but now I didn’t know where it was at this time. When it left my house it seemed to be heading South, perhaps toward…I don’t know…..maybe Texas. The reporter tried to get me to confirm the idea that the Dubya and the Chainlink were holing up in a soon-to-be vacant US base in Cuba awaiting a military tribunal. I said I did not have that information, but if they were there, they were receiving good treatment--as good as or better than that required by the Geneva Convention.

Kgosi

Sunday, October 18, 2009

Elections are done

National elections passed on Friday and with that hopefully, the end of the loudspeaker trucks at all hours of the day and night. Some controversy however has been brought by the BNF against the in-power BDP for screwing up the ballot and dis-enfranchising 23,000 police officers who were supposed to vote three weeks ago so they could man the polling places. The ballots allegedly were so defective that the Police were postponed to vote on Oct 16th with everyone else, but since they had to be at the polls, they couldn’t vote. “Scandal” cries the party that is not going to win, calling for the resignation of the election commissioner—don’t know yet if it will result in a disputed election and court fight. (Sound vaguely familiar?). It’s not likely to really make a difference since the BDP will probably out-poll the BNF by 3:1 in what virtually everyone agrees is a fair and legitimate democratic election. The BDP has been honest and good for Botswana for over 40 years, so they keep getting re-elected (what a concept!).

Uh-Oh………a Court fight or re-vote could mean more loud-speaker trucks.


Peace Corps moment #28

I was walking home from the office on Monday and see a group 8-9 year olds coming down the cross road. They keep a bit of a distance (this is not totally unusual since not all African children know what to make of us pale-skinned folk). Girl #1 then comes sprinting up to me with a big smile.

Girl #1: “Hiii” and gives me a high-five. (There is usually one brave one in every group)

Kgosi: Hi

Girl #1: I am fine

Kgosi: (not having asked, but…) I am fine too. O bidiwa mang? (What is your name?)

Girl #1: Boitamelo

Kgosi: Ke bidiwa Kgosi (My name is Kgosi)

Girl #1 (Boitamelo): You know me. You saw me before.

Kgosi: (Having no idea when or if I have seen her before. Also not sure if she has gotten her pronouns mixed up-- meaning to say “I saw you before”, but said “You saw me before”. It is also possible that she thinks because I may have seen her in the mix of 30-40 kids passing our house that I will remember her. After all there are 4 Caucasians and 25,000 Africans in Ramotswa and she remembers me).

Kgosi: Nice to see you Boitamelo. (Good all-purpose response)

The group has decided that I am benign and begins to gather round

Kgosi: Are you in school? (This is a good bet since they are all wearing school uniforms.)

Boitamelo and others in unison: Yes, Seboko Primary School

Kgosi: What did you learn about today?

Girl#2: We went to the Clinic today

Girl#3: We learn about the Ree-pro-duck tiff system

Boy#1: The Male Ree-pro-duck-tiff system

Girl #3: And the She-male Ree-pro-duck-tiff system

Girl#4: No (backhands Girl#3) the Fe-male Ree-pro-duck-tiff system

Boy#2: We learn about the penniz (pronounced like “The pen is on the table”) and the You-ree-tra
(OK Kgosi can’t pronounce “Urethra” most of the time either)

Girl#3: Yeah and fagina and the cervicks too

Kgosi: It is good to learn the right name for those things, not the silly names

All in unison: Yes!!............... Go Siame (Good bye)

Kgosi: Go Siame (I guess when the conversation is over, it is over)

___________________________________________________________________________

Having had a little more free time this week, I have been able to peruse the international news as much as the African news and the most interesting stories are coming from abroad. Therefore this week’s edition will have a decidedly world-wide flair.



The Kalahari Khronicle Volume 1, Issue 3
October 18, 2009

English population plagued by food

A report out of London this week indicates that half of all the British population (over 25,000,000 people) report at some time having been injured by…… well….. cookies. 500 have been hospitalized with severe burns apparently from dunking their cookies into hot tea, 5% of the injuries involved chipped teeth, 15% from choking, 7% occurred when the person was bitten by a wild animal trying to get at the cookie and 3% from poking themselves in the eye with the cookie while trying to eat it.

Kgosi’s Komment-- I would be totally mortified to show up at the emergency room and require hospitalization for an injury suffered while dunking a Fig Newton.

Cap’n I need more power (Scottie from Star Trek)

Three weeks ago several thieves were apprehended outside of Sacramento, California in the middle of the night as they were attempting to steal a giant pepper off the roof of a Chili's restaurant. They might have actually pulled off the heist, except in order to saw the pepper off with an electric chain saw, they were discovered having run a 470-foot extension cord over a four lane highway and through the parking lot of a Home Depot.

Kgosi’s Komment—Crooks are seldom numbers of Mensa, but don’t you think these guys would have heard of cordless appliances. Then again, any group that thought that it was a great idea to have a giant chili pepper in their backyard may not be the sharpest knives in the kitchen.

UK children required to pass test

Manchester Guardian, September 2009

Students in greater Manchester, England will now need to achieve certification in
"Using Public Transport (Unit One)" which tests a teenager's ability to catch a school bus. In order to pass, children must show that they can:
Walk to a bus stop.
Stand or sit and wait.
Enter the bus calmly and safely.
Sit where the bus driver tells you to sit.
Leave the bus safely

Kgosi’s Komment-- Kgosi wonders how many students actually failed this certification. I suspect they are the same folks who poke themselves in the eye with a gingersnap.



Coughing Mystery Solved

Associated Press, September 18, 2009

John Manley, a resident of Wilmington North Carolina has been plagued by coughing fits for the last two years. Doctors at Duke University Medical Center have solved the mystery after probing his lungs and removing a 1 inch piece of plastic, which had apparently rested there since he inhaled it nearly 2 years ago while drinking a soft drink at a Wendy's restaurant. The former home re-modeler said, “I like to take big gulps of soda. I don't know of any other ways of getting it there."

Kgosi’s Komment--Kgosi has stayed up several nights wondering whether this 1- inch piece of plastic was actually a section of the straw or part of a plastic spoon. Either way, if he could manage to inhale it without realizing it, no dinner invitations are forthcoming to Chez Kgosi.


Advertisement by Cashbuild Stores

Gaborone Daily News Sunday, September 13, 2009

For only 98 pula (approximately $11) any Gaborone resident can purchase a Rapido brand toilet bowl.

Kgosi’s Komment-- This does not include a toilet seat, a tank, any connections or any obvious opening from inside the bowl. Therefore, it is essentially a deep, elevated bed pan. Kgosi has trouble figuring out why anyone would want this product. It weighs too much to lift and has no way to empty it. This seems to preclude its being used for the usual purpose, but may explain the $11 sale price. Kgosi would never buy a toilet bowl with the Rapido brand anyway.



He’s got to see a Guy about a Horse

New York Daily News July 29, 2009

Rodell Vereen a 50 y.o. South Carolina man, was busted by the local authorities for having sex with a horse. This would have been bad enough, but he was already on probation for having sex with the same horse 18 months ago. According to police, he was caught dead to rights in a security camera video committing “buggery” with a 21 year old filly named Sugar.

The property owner, Barbara Kenley, had already seen camera footage of Mr. Vereen from 6 nights previous, but the police had been unable to identify the suspect in the picture. Ms. Kenley therefore began stand nightly watch in the barn waiting for him to return, which he did. When she pointed a shotgun at him, he said he was looking for a bathroom. Kenley told him he was “full of crap.”

Kgosi’s Komment—Kgosi only has two things to say:

First, in the words of Nancy Reagan, couldn’t Ms Kenley have taught Sugar to
“Just say Neeeiiiggghhh?”

Secondly, you never hear of Africans committing buggery. It’s just too damn risky with a rhino.


Kgosi
Editor in chief
(We don’t make the news, we just report it)

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Summer has arrived.

It took somewhat longer than most people expected, but summer weather has made its appearance in Ramotswa. There have been three days over 90° this week and we are attempting to cool the house at night with two fans. Can hardly wait for December and January.

I won't lie. It has really been a tough week and I'm not really sure why. In the words of my elder daughter, it was death by 1000 paper cuts. I suppose some of it has to do with being alone in the office and feeling responsible for making things go well which by and large, they did.

The best news of the week was that we got our hot water back, thanks solely to Kopo’s persistence. She said she was going to call the repair people every day until we got action. Dealing by phone with anyone here is a real challenge. She couldn’t reach the same person twice, the new person could not seem to recall any record of a problem having been reported; and of course, the ultimate excuse in Botswana: “We have no transport.”

Ultimately, when the repair person showed, a diagnosis was never made, although after a half hour on the roof, the hot water started to flow. He said if it there was any other problem, to just call. (Anyone want to make a bet?)
The most interesting event of the week was that Kopo and I went over to visit the new Ramotswa Library that is currently under construction. Although started in January and scheduled for completion last month, it is barely 2/3 done. We attended the Library Construction Committee meeting that had a number of people pointing fingers at each other. The principal construction company is a Chinese firm and two of its representatives, Mr. Wei and Mr. Chu, were there and took a fair amount of criticism from the 15 Batswana in attendance-- including the East Indian architect, the mechanical engineer, the structural engineer, the head of the electrical installers, and the client, who is the National Library of Botswana. Overall, it was a fascinating multicultural exercise which was still going on after two hours when we stepped out to get a tour of the mostly-still-cinder-block structure. It is going to be a beautiful building when completed, perhaps the nicest building in town. It will have 8-16 computers with Internet access, and will be a real asset when it is completed…… but I am not holding my breath.

We also met with Kakale Motlhabane, who is not only the librarian for Ramotswa, but is also one of our neighbors. I presented her with my initial thoughts on a secondary project I have been planning, which involves giving a series of 90-minute educational talks to the community at the new library with the title "My Life is in the Library." This will be a monthly series in which I will co-facilitate with a Botswana counterpart. I will give many of the presentations myself and focus on mental health, interpersonal relationships and life skills issues. I plan to have the talks recorded on DVD’s and distributed to all the reading rooms in the district.

A second portion of the project will be to form an ongoing group of in-school and young adult out-of-school youth called “Lifeline.” They will have ongoing discussions in a small group format, as well as form a working task force to create and distribute health-related messages to the schools and the community. In addition to health related topics, I hope to give instruction on computer skills, and spoken English.

Kakale was very positive about the project and has given the full support of herself and her staff. Unfortunately, the library has very few funds and any equipment or support that I would need for this project will either have to come from the Ministry of Local Government, or from a private donor. Next week I am going to Gaborone to meet with the national coordinator of Sesigo, which is the umbrella organization for the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation, which is the primary donor paying for library construction throughout Botswana. Perhaps they may be interested in funding some ongoing programming beyond the building phase……will see.

A few more things I have learned since being in Africa

Life without a car is decidedly inconvenient

Life in a country that values age and maturity has its benefits
when you are 63

The war against AIDS is going to be a long one

It is comforting to stay in a country where guns are banned

Here, despite the best of hand washing, black underwear stays black
but white underwear turns gray.

Sincere compliments, a smile and hard work are valued in every culture

African flies are cagey, especially when you don’t have a fly swatter
because they don’t sell them here

Sunday morning with a cup of coffee and a newspaper is pretty close to
Nirvana, even if the paper is 7 weeks old

Jacaranda trees in full Spring bloom are simply spectacular







Goats will eat anything. (I unfortunately missed the picture of the goat standing on the cab of a pick-up truck for better access)




Hey I’m just a kid






Maaa, I’m stuck

Jump. You’re a goat



Don’t make me come in there!



Kgosi
October 11, 2009

Sunday, October 4, 2009

Maun

We had our first real "vacation" away from the work site this week. The two national holidays along with one day of "leave time" from the Peace Corps made for a five-day trip up to Maun. Maun is the principal city in the northwest part of Botswana, and is also one of the two principal jumping off points for safaris, river trips, and game watches in the Okavango Delta. As such, it is busy, relatively westernized and much more populated by Europeans of all nationalities and a large group of Afrikaner’s (Dutch/German descendants who are sometimes referred to as Boers or farmers).

For the price of 160 pula ($22) we got the joy of a purported 10 hour bus ride. By leaving Ramotswa at 4:45 AM for a ride to the Gaborone bus station, we got there early enough to get a seat. The aisles were packed to the gills with standing room passengers, many of whom were standing at least 4 to 5 hours before they could sit down. A couple of rest stops and nine hot sweaty hours later we thought we had the end in sight---- but not so fast Bozo
We pulled off the main road into a small village and emptied out all the passengers. The following picture tells some of the story:




I never did find out exactly what was going on, as the only word I could make out from the bus driver was "compressor." Regardless of the cause, when this occurs nine hours into a 10 hour bus ride and 80 km from your destination, it is not a good sign. As can be seen, there were many consultants trying to help the bus driver who was under the bus. After canvassing the local townsfolk, the bus driver borrowed a screwdriver and one of the passengers fashioned a crude 3 inch diameter disk out of Shake-Shake carton which he had fished out of a trash can. (Shake-Shake is the local beer and derives its name from the fact that it has sediment in the bottom and needs to be shaken up to drink. It comes in a waxed carton like an American milk carton. ) A gasket like flange was screwed back on and the problem was deemed fixed. Don't ask me how it is possible that a problem that could bring down a whole bus is repaired by a discarded Shake-Shake box, but it was and we rolled into Maun 1 1/2 hours late--sweaty and tired but delighted to have arrived.

A number of other Peace Corps volunteers had made the trek to Maun from various towns in Botswana as well. Some were camping at the "Backpackers Lodge," an outpost on the river including Jeff Auser, Glenn Smallwood, Richard Walker, Cherry Washington, Laura Nissley, and Lena Muldavin. Others like us were staying at the house of another Peace Corps volunteer Roberta Troxell. Roberta is a nurse midwife from Illinois and proved to be an excellent hostess for the five of us who were staying with her, which included Karen Auble, Alison White and Heidi Jansen.
The first night, we let the Lodge staff do the cooking and they put out something resembling a very passable cheeseburger. We met several of the other Europeans were staying at the lodge including Gordon MacDougall, an 18-year-old from Glasgow Scotland, who was doing his "gap year" as a volunteer with out of school youth. We also met two Germans who sported full beards and who were in the midst of doing a Che Guevara-- type motorcycle trip beginning in Namibia and heading all the way to Germany.
The next night with Roberta at the helm and the rest of us as sous chefs, we put out a real spread of vegetarian lasagna, mixed salad with homegrown lettuce, garlic bread, and topped off by some vanilla ice cream with rhubarb sauce -- a veritable feast.
Over the course of two days we played several Scrabble games, took a sunset boat ride down the river and walked for two hours in a public game Sanctuary. Neither of these latter two activities resulted in much big game viewing except for a few zebra, several baboons, an Impala and a few comely warthogs as shown below.













As is often the case when Peace Corps volunteers get together, the best part of the experience is getting to know each other better and sharing great conversation, complaints, stories and rumors. It is hard to conceive of finding 60 people of all ages and backgrounds who had never known each other prior to April of this year, but who are so interesting, smart, talented and resourceful.
We had hoped for an overland 4x4 safari on Friday, but were foiled by the Botswana bureaucracy. The federal office where we had to buying the park entrance ticket was closed for the holiday, so we postponed until Saturday. The ultimate outcome was foretold in a tremendous thunder and lightning show Friday evening which led to a steady downpour beginning in the middle of the night and continuing well into the morning. After some hasty consultation at 4:30 in the morning, Kopo and I decided that discretion was the better part of valor and we abandoned the safari in favor of a 6 AM bus back to Gaborone. We figured that a 12 hour ride around the bush while being soggy, cold and wet was the best we could expect, even if we saw some good animals. This would also allow us to get home with a day to regroup before the work week started. We will have time for several other game watches over the next several months as part of some business trips that we will need to make, one to Khutse in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve in early November and a second one to Kasane for World AIDS Day in early December. And these will be in addition to our previous great viewing at Kruger Park when in South Africa several years ago.

I will have my first crack at running the office alone this week as both my District AIDS Coordinator and Monitoring and Evaluation officer are attending a World Bank workshop all week. I’m looking forward to getting several projects started in their absence. I might even get the printing presses cranked up and get out another issue of the Kalahari Khronicle for next week's post.
I'll close this post with a picture of one of the beautiful African sunsets which we took from our boat ride.

Kgosi